Make your own free website on
All of our babies are hand fed with Kaytee’s Exact hand feeding formula from the time they are about 10 days old.When they get to be about 4-5 weeks old we begin introducing soft foods to them such as unsweetened cheerios, and chopped fruits and vegetables before we even begin giving them seed and pellet.As they progress, and on into the age where they are completely independent as far as feeding, we continue to offer them fruits, vegetables, whole grain breads and pasta, some proteins such as hard cheese.
Parrots like a variety in taste, color, and texture and we highly recommend that the new owner continues this practice. We also recommend that they continue to get both a seed and pellet mix. We don’t believe that just giving them one or the other is necessarily all that good for them.
Do not give your parrot sugar, salt, caffeine, or fatty foods. What’s good or bad for you is also good or bad for your bird. Some things such as chocolate and avocados are highly toxic.
We do have a link on our site for toxic plants and foods. If you are unable to find it, email me and I’ll send you the link. thatbirdplace.tripod
When the Honeymoon is over;

There are some common things that happen when a family brings a new baby bird home. First of all that baby has been placed in a new environment and they are going to need time to adjust especially depending on the species of birds. Some babies are ready to step into their new life and get at it!

But there are some crucial things that happen during this time, we call the Honeymoon Phase, that can drastically effect your long-term relationship. It can result in frustration for both you and your new friend.

When the new arrival enters the home, it is natural to shower him or her with enthusiastic attention. Every time you see the cage, you automatically want to take him out and coo over him. The problem with this is that you are conditioning the new pet to a certain behavior and you do not even realize it.

It is like a new born human baby that sleeps with his parents. It may be easier when you have just arrived home from the hospital, but when the baby is used to sleeping with mom, this eventually becomes a real problem. He is being conditioned to having that lavish attention, and getting that attention will not always be feasible. There are days when things are hectic and you don't have as much time to spend with him. There will be times when you simply don't feel like getting him out and interacting. We all have to have our own down time.

It happens.......

After a couple of weeks when the newness wears off, and it will, you are ready to settle into a more practical routine. You aren't neglecting him and have no intention of doing so. You simply need to establish a routine that is a little less demanding, while giving him the attention he deserves to have.

But, the new baby doesn't understand that. He only knows that he is not getting the attention that he was conditioned to expect. This is when behavior problems begin. He may begin screaming and after awhile the new owner may find that covering him, or putting him in another room, will quiet him. But no bird can be content with this kind of life. He may even begin biting and even resort to self mutilation out of frustration, and the new owner simply doesn't know what to do. He is not really being "bad," he simply wants what he is used to getting, but the owner has been left not knowing what has gone wrong!

The best thing to do is not allow this course of action to begin because it is real hard to change, not impossible, but hard. When the new baby arrives, begin establishing a practical routine right away. For an example, when you arrive home at the end of the day, you are tempted to take him out of his cage right away, and why wouldn't you? He is looking at you with so much adoration and is just so darn cute. But do not make this a habit because it will put demands on you that you will come to regret. Say hello to him and give him a treat, then later on when things settle down you can get him out when you want to, not when he expects it. I'm not saying that you can never get him out of his cage when you arrive home, I'm just saying don't make it the habit because that is what he will learn to expect in very short time.

With hand fed babies going to a new home, they have a clean slate. The behavior that the learn will be what you teach him, knowingly and unknowingly. The other thing that can happen with a new baby, or even an older bird, is that the new owner's expectations can be very high. With a new baby bird, you want to see him as such. He is not going to instantly talk or do the tricks you want him to do. Like any babies, it takes time and consistency. He will grow and learn new skills, and perfect them just as any baby will. You would not expect a 6 week old puppy to be house broken or leash trained and you allow for him to learn this as you teach him. You would also teach your puppy tricks and behaviors by working with him over time. Sometimes, because birds are so intelligent, we expect more from them that they may be capable of.

So, accept your new avian friend as he comes and remember that he learns from you......


We all have to deal with the bite at some time or another. The fear of it is probably worse than the bite itself, though some bites can be pretty nasty. We assume that birds bite only out of fear, and that may be true most of the time. Birds will bite if they come to know that hands as the instrument of harassment. A bird that sits in a pet shop for some time may be the object of poking and will learn to bite in defense.

If you acquire a hand fed baby you might be surprised when his nips you, because, he is after all a hand fed baby. But keep in mind that this hand fed baby has been taken out of the only environment that he knows, and has been taken away from Mama. In this case if he bites, it is definitely because of fear. You can prevent this from happening by careful handling and taking your queue from him/her. He will let you know if he is ready to go to the next level of interaction. In general, give him his space and let him settle in at his own pace. With older birds going to a new home, this is even more crucial because you have no idea what is going on in their birdie psyche. You are taking on years of conditioning as well as normal fear.

But as I have watched many young fledglings develop, I have noticed that some have an attitude of superiority. A common phrase in my house is, “That one has an attitude,” and everyone knows exactly what that means. For example; I had two Maroon Belly Conures that showed this contrast in personality. One was more laid back and a snuggler, while the other was more vocal, and his bit his sibling, stood on his head, and just generally picked on him. He vocalized at me when for some unknown reason I had offended him and he would give me a nip. It doesn’t hurt, but he clearly wanted to be in control and assert the authority he believed he had. And, he was just six weeks old and treated no different than the other.

He would need a confident owner that was not intimidated by a few ounces of fluff. This type of personality must have pleasing behavior rewarded and not much fuss made over “bad behavior,” because parrots thrive on drama. If you squeal that is enough reason to do it again.

Ye another reason for biting has nothing to do with aggression. We raise Sun Conures, which in my opinion are the dearest, sweetest bird on the face of the Earth. But they love to wrestle in mock anger and tussle in play, either with each other, or with people. Most Conures will do this. At times they get rough and nips happen. It is then time for a “time out” not being intended as punishment, but for time to find our normal composure.....again, rewarding “good” behavior with praise and treats. Our Suns get an “OOPS!” look on their face when they slip and nip because the really don’t want to hurt anyone.

With this thought in mind, you should also understand that most parrots go through an adolescents of sort. It will be anywhere from 6 months to 2 years. During this time, if he is a hand fed baby, he has settled in and is going through THAT phase. They will begin testing and seeing how far they can go, and biting may be part of that test. If he appears to have intentionally bitten, ladder him each time he does. This means moving him from one hand to the other repeatedly and quickly. This may sound simple, but it shows that you are in command without hurting him or causing any harm to his birdie psyche. You may also want to try the old ignore trick and he will learn that he will only get attention when he is good. This would also apply to excessive screaming.

Other reasons for biting are hormonal and territorial. When it is that time of year, breeding season, most of our parrots turn into Pit Bulls. We expect and accept that and them their space and handle with caution. This will vary from species to species and if they do not have a potential mate in the home, hormones might rise and fall with little fuss.

The second mentioned being territorial.. Don’t touch my cage, my toys, my nest box, my stuff, and sometimes my person! It’s just that simple. Some species will be more territorial than others such as; Indian Ringnecks, Lovebirds, and Parrotlets. In this case it is important to teach them to step up from the door so you are not reaching into their cage for them. Reaching into their space may result in the nasty bite and it will be your fault, not theirs. You may want to move him to a play stand when you clean his cage.

And then there is the reason that completely eludes us. Sometimes we just don’t know why birds bite. And, what makes them bite one time might not make them bite another time. Go figure! The bottom line here is to know your bird and that species. Remember they are not like cats and dogs. We often times don’t know why they do the things they do, but a lasting bond with our avian pets will succeed when we let them by birds and enjoy them for who they are!

for more information visit our website.

Indian Ringneck Parakeet [IRN]

Psittacula Krameri Parvirostris

The Indian Ringneck {IRN} is one of many sub-species in the parakeet kingdom. When most non-bird people think of parakeets, they are thinking of the Budgies that they see in pet stores. But some parakeet species can be as large as the larger parrots and quite intelligent.

In the wild the IRNs are found in Sudan, Ethiopia, and Somalia. The normal color is green, but they also come in blue, lutino, albino, cinnamon, pied, and turquoise among other combinations of these. They are bigger than a Cockatiel, but not as big as some Conures. Their chatter is just that and is not offensive to the sensitive ear at all. Their size and noise level would make them a good apartment bird, or a good bird for someone who simply wants the intelligences of a parrot without the size and noise. They are also more affordable than some of the larger birds.

The IRN is an awesomely intelligent bird and have been known to have extensive vocabularies. Their voice is quite clear and they will mimic various household sounds as well.A Lutino IRN we once had, had a rather extensive vocabulary by the time he was six months old. While not one of our babies, he was a clutch mate to two that I had bought out of the nest. The breeder sold him/her to a pet shop where he sat for four months with little to no positive interaction. He soon lost his sweet, loving, hand-fed baby gentleness. But when we acquired him, it was obvious that he still wanted to be around people and he quickly became attached to us.

They are a fearless little parrots and tend to be territorial with their cages and belongings, but most parrot enthusiasts understand that this is part of parrot partnership. So it is best to move them onto a play stand for interaction. The IRN, like many parrots, will go through "their teen years" of sorts during their first year and may become defiant and will challenge you. But patience and time works wonders and before long your baby will have gotten past this phases and has become a gentle, mature pet. They will entertain you with their activity, amaze you with their ability to reason, and simply delight you. They love lots of toys and are fascinated by new things. Most Ringnecks are very hardy eaters and will eat just about anything you give them with a great deal of enthusiasm!

These darlings make a wonderful pet for the whole family. They do not have the tendency to be a one person bird, though there are exceptions. They do, however, require daily interaction, or they will become self sufficient real quick and may not want your attention. Most parrots are like this to some degree, but IRN are moreso that way and in shorter time. The good news is that is doesn't take long to get them back to themselves, but it is best to simply keep up that daily interaction.

Some parrots can handle days when your life is hectic and you can't spend as much time with them, such as Amazons. They will not have changed when you do get them out to play days later. Other parrots, such as Cockatoos, get emotionally stressed when they are not getting the attention they are used to. A Conure {some}might sit and scream. An IRN will find other things to do and won't crave that attention. Again, the good news, is that it doesn't take long to get him back to "himself."

But when considering any parrot, you will want to be practical about your decision. It only takes ten minutes or so of interaction each day to keep your relationship with your IRN healthy. But, you have to do it. Besides, why buy a bird if you don't plan to spend time with him/her???

I think if I had to choose the one thing that stands out the most when I think of IRNs, it would be their extreme intelligence. The wheels are always turning in their birdie head. Not only intelligent, they are extremely graceful. So, with these thoughts in mind, and only a small sacrifice of your time, you can have an awesome bird.

Green Cheek Conures are a fabulous little parrot. They are not real big, only measuring about 11 inches long and are roughly the size of a cockatiel. They are a perfect apartment parrot! Unlike our Sun Conures, Green Cheek Conures are a quieter bird. I'm not saying that they do not talk or jibber jabber [They can learn to talk ] generously and let out a jungle call now and then. I'm saying, decimal-wise, they can not reach the levels that the Suns can. Some people, such as myself, are just sold on Sun Conures and are willing to tolerate the occasionally banshee screeches.

But the Green Cheek Conure stands right beside the Sun as far as personality. Cuddly and playful, they are always on a mission. Green cheeks remind me of a Jack Russell Terrier- always moving, always doing something, and doing it with all their heart. And, don't let their size fool you, they can be fierce at times and will let you know with a verbal exchange when you have offended them! They can also get a little nippy and it can hurt, but with gentle, firm handling this can be curbed. We have noticed that our GC babies get nippy right near, or after, weaning and then again when they reach sexual maturity. Like many phases, it comes and goes with little fuss especially with a single pet. There are techniques for dealing with this nippiness, such as firmly grasping their beak and saying “Don’t Bite.” [see also our article on biting]

All in all, people we know that have GCs are very happy with their little pet. Once the GC has gotten beyond their phases they are over all a peaceful and friendly bird.

We have seen our Green Cheeks enjoy small stuffed animal and cuddling up in a make-shift tent made with a small towel or wash clothes. We are amazed with our Gracie and how she has never pooped on the cow with a skirt that she has had since she was very tiny. She keeps it well preened, and sleeps on the cow's lap with a wash cloth draped around them both. [Since the writing of this page, Gracie became a momma in Oct. 2006, but still loves her cow and shares in with her mate Oswald.]

In the wild they can be found in South and Central American, and Mexico. The eat berries, fruit, insects, and other vegetation. The flock together and live in social harmony for the most part.

A Green Cheek Conure will do well in a cockatiel size cage, but as with any bird, the bigger the better. Your Green Cheek will like to come out often and spend time hanging out with you and playing about.

The Green Cheek Conure comes in several color mutations; normal , yelllow-sided, cinnamon, pineapple, and even turquoise, and splits. We now have our own breeding pair Gracie and Oswald, and are working on setting up a second pair. We have a sweet, little pineapple girl named Maggie and she awaits her future groom.

As with any parrot species, it is best to do a good bit of research before and after bringing one into your home. There are up sides and down sides to each specie and it is up to you to decided which is best suited for your home and lifestyle.

Sun Conures

Who can look at one of these gorgeous creations and not compare them to a sunset? A flock of Sun Conures flying across an evening sky was once said to have resembled a beautiful sunset. Hence, the name Sun Conure was assigned to the species. The Sun Conure's body color of a fully matured Sun possesses a yellow-orange glow with a distinct resemblance to gold. The brilliant blend of yellow, orange, red, blue and green colors means that Sun Conures outshine most other birds in appearance.

The difference between a Sun Conure and a Jenday Conure is that the Jenday is a slightly bigger bird and does not get the color on their back that the Sun gets. Their backs and wings are green. As babies, it is hard to tell the difference. The Sun Conure will get their full color within 2-3 molts.

The Sun Conures, though known for their loud shrill, makes up for that assumed flaw with their beauty and loving nature. This comical and bubbly bird will liven up anyone's home. They love to play and cuddle, and you will make them happy by offering a cozy or blanket for them to sleep in. Or they might nestle inside your shirt sleeve. They are happiest when they interact with you. They are social and will adjust to other birds if given some time. We introduce any new babies to our Suns for interaction and the Suns will lean into the baby for snuggling. They are not particularly territorial like a lot of parrots. Normally their loud shrill is their way of greeting someone. "Hello, come over here and talk to me. How was your day? " We have noticed with our hand fed babies that they are not often noisy and that is due to the fact that they are kept content by being played with and we rotate their toys to keep them busy. The main time we hear their shrill call is when we arrive home after having been gone for awhile, first thing in the morning, and right before bed when they are ready to be put to bed for the night. They do like routine.

The Sun Conure possesses a multi-faceted personality that will delight the experienced bird owner and pique the curiosity of the inexperienced non-bird person. We often walk by our brooders and baby cages and see them laying on their back while looking at a toy or their feet. They often wrestle with each other-engaged in a mock battle. They love bells and shiny objects. They are not especially good talkers, but a hand fed baby will often learn to talk in a raspy Conure voice.

They do like to bath and often will take a dip as soon as your put fresh water in for them, so you might want to consider using a water bottle in addition to their bowl. Like any parrot, allow time for them out of their cage with you, or a play gym which may simply be the top of their cage.....

Sun Conures live up to 35 year of age and usually have 3-4 eggs in a clutch. They are good parents, normally, and will often begin nesting again shortly after you take the babies for hand feeding, or once the babies are weaned if parent fed.

Special training for Suns;
Since the Sun Conure has a loud, somewhat irritating screech and are very intelligent, a new owner is likely to make a common mistake. Read through the sheet called, “When the Honeymoon is Over,” as it applies to all birds, but is especially important for louder species.

It is important to settle into a practical routine as soon as you bring your new Sun Conure home. Lavishing them with extra attention for the first couple of weeks is a big mistake. They will come to expect that attention and later on will begin screaming when they don’t get it and that’s not their fault.

Never reward screaming with attention even if it is negative. Instead, ignore screaming completely and interact or reward your Sun only when they are quiet. You will be surprised at how quickly the catch on one way or the other...

RE-HOMING A BIRD The birds that we re-home for a low fee or no fee are usually our own “breeder” birds. They may have lost a mate and are past their breeding prime, but have many good pet years left, and why not find a good home for them?

Our breeding birds are also our pets. In fact, they are our pets first. They may not be “touchy feel-y,” [in some cases they are very affectionate] but they have been interacted with on their terms, daily. A breeding pair is usually very protective of their mate, nest, and babies so they are not going to be as physically interacting, and this is natural. Taking one of these birds home is not like taking a hand fed baby home. You need to know that right up front. If understanding this, you still feel you would like to adopt him or her, you can think in terms of what you are getting, and not what you are not getting. If you can offer your love for avian pets and are willing to interact with them on their terms, this might be a perfect match.

In most cases we’ve had them since they were babies, or at least since they were very young. They all seek us out in some way when we are working in the bird room and have their own personality, likes, and dislikes. In most cases this is the only home they have know, and unless we find exactly the right new home for them, they will stay right here.

Our thoughts are that the bird has “served” us well and if the opportunity comes up that they can be homed somewhere where they will get more one-on-one attention, they deserve that!

We look for a home where he or she will be the only bird, or in a home where there are not that many pets. We look for non-smoking homes, and will not re-home a bird when that bird will be a small child’s pets. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us.

More about parrots

When a person walks into a pet shop, they are naturally awed by the majestic looking bird in the cage. The pet shop owner, or breeder, might get him out and let him interact with you especially if he is a hand fed baby. He may move close to you to be scratched on the head, or even cuddle. He may look at you with big, sparkling eyes and say, “Hello.”

This is adorable and very appealing. This is also the perfect image that we take home with us as we contemplate the pet we just fell in love with, and consider how we might come up with the money to buy him. What we don’t realize is that perfect picture is not always so perfect. There is much more going on with the birdie psyche than that of a cat or dog. At the very least, it’s different. It is why they are called exotic pets. It is not just because they originate from abroad. It is also because they are unusual, interesting, mysterious, an enigma, striking, strange, and even bizarre. These are all terms that can be found in a thesaurus as it pertains to the word “exotic.”

First of all, of all the creatures in the world to be caged, if you think about it, the last of them should be a bird. A creature made to fly and climb through the treetops is not naturally built or inclined to cage dwelling. They don’t live in holes like rodents, or caves like other animals. They live in trees and clefts in the rocks and mountains. They dance in the wind. And, for this reason, you should not take a parrot/bird home unless you are committed to making their life as comfortable as possible for as long as necessary, which is forever.

Small and large, birds can be houses in flight cages to give them room to fly around, as nature would have it. If you can not do this for them, then you must continue to allow them time out of the cage on a daily basis. There will be times when this is not feasible, but on most days this must be done.

When we move into the larger and more intelligent birds, we can never completely fathom just how much stimuli they must have. How much and what type will vary from species to species.

For instance, an Amazon parrot is often times not real active and will be content with tv, toys, and some of that daily involvement with the family. Our Amazons’ favorite past time is watching for the pizza delivery guy. They will also balk when we run them around the house for exercise. Other species such as Conures move around a lot, and change of toys for any bird is always in order.

A Cockatoo must have that daily physical attention or they become very discontented and may self-mutilate. They are a very touchy- feely bird and will simply waste away without that contact.

Noise; Noise is the big factor and when you walk into a shop, or a person’s home, and hear the twitter of birdie noise, just multiply that by ten and fit it into every single day of your life. I have had people come to my home to look at Sun Conure babies and say about the Sun Conure noise coming from the bird room, “Oh, that’s not too bad.” Well, our Sun Conure pair is in the bird room, they have each other, toys, tv, and other birds. They are also used to being in the bird room and getting attention from us as we work around the bird’s room, which is quite often. They have been conditioned to be content where they are, so it is true; their noise is not that bad. If you bring a new baby home, and for the first few weeks he is held and cooed over whenever you are home, that is what he is being conditioned to be content with. Then once that stops and you settle into a more practical routine, this perfect bird becomes problem bird, and the “ Oh that’s not so bad” noise becomes a noise that can wake the dead. This is the number one mistake people make when they bring a new bird home.

Re-homed birds can be particularly challenging. When you buy a bird that has been in multiple homes, you are bringing a lot of baggage into your home. Parrots especially do not re-home well, and it may be months before you win his trust and can begin interacting with him on a more intimate level. Most people just aren’t willing to wait that long to have the perfect bird and frustrated. You can not just expect to reach in and pull a new bird out of his cage and not get bit. People do not realize at this point that his their own fault. They may even return the bird, or sell him to another party and this just adds more baggage.

There is no such thing as a perfect bird. There is no bird that is going to be quiet most of the time, not bite, not destroy furniture, entertain you or your guest on command, or not squirt through the bars of the cage on to you oriental rug; Or not reseed the forest by swishing his beak back and forth in his dish while piles of seeds fall to the floor. It just doesn’t happen.

So if your perfect picture is that beautiful creature dazzling in the sunlight that is streaming into that special, sunny nook, and he looks perfect, and only talks when spoken, and never makes a mess, and always welcomes your hand anywhere near him or in his cage, [music please] you better take another look. The best situation happens when a person allows a parrot/bird to be what they are. They should never hold the status that a prized collectible piece of art would hold. Just like children, they all have their own personalities and stress points, and some may be more social than others.

So before buying a bird, do lots of research and think about it for awhile before making that commitment. Do not settle for any bird just to have a bird. Research the different species and visit them if you can. Most reputable breeder will give you their time and discuss the different issues with you. I can not stress this strongly enough!

Lovebirds in general;

If you want a little bird with lots of energy and packed with personality, a Lovebird might be for you! These tiny, curious, colorful clowns will entertain and delight you for hours with their many antics.

Note: In most cases it is best to keep a single bird as a pet because once a Lovebirds bonds with a mate, he usually doesn't interact as well with humans, but there are always those special cases where this proves to be untrue.

However, if you work long hours and don't think you'll have a lot of time for your Lovebird, we recommend you get a companion for him/her. This will keep your Lovebirds happy and prevent boredom. It is important to realize that while Lovebirds are a small parrot, they have the intelligence and abilities of some of the largest parrots. They seem to think things through in some birdie logic. They can amaze you with their ability to escape their own cages (I have to put clips on the cage doors to keep them in, and sometimes they figure out how to open those!) they will also try to become the boss of the home.

Three species of Lovebird, the; Peach-faced [Agapornis roseicollis], Masked [Agapornis personata], and Fischer's [Agapornis fischeri], are relatively common in captivity. Among the Agapornis roseicollis there is also the White-face Lovebird which is very beautiful. It has been estimated that there are over a thousand color combinations for Agapornis roseicollis Lovebird; colors that include violet, turquoise, yellows, blues, greens and white. The remaining species are either uncommon, or completely unknown in aviculture, and are collectively referred to as the rares which include the Black Collared and true Red-face..


Lovebirds need a cage which has at least two places to perch, with room to fly from one to the other. Perches should be a size which is comfortable for the bird’s feet, not too small or too large. Water must be changed and the dish washed every day. Lovebirds love to play in their water. They also like to shred paper and dip it. I give our Lovebirds water bottles for a source of clean, fresh water, and weaned babies go to their new homes already using a water bottle.

Lovebirds require more than just seed. In addition, some pellet in their diet, supplemented with fresh fruits, vegetables, boiled eggs, cereals, pasta, cooked rice, and lentils will produce a healthy, beautifully feathered Lovebird. Many Lovebird breeders also feed a seed-based diet, with most of the other foods as supplements. A seed-based diet must consist of a mixture of seeds and grains. Corn is often a big hit with Lovebirds, as is sprouted seed.

HOUSING: Lovebirds also can be territorial about their cages, and you may have to learn to respect that because it is a Lovebird "thing." In this case, when you are getting him out of his cage, simply put your hand by his cage door, so that he can step out onto it. You may find that if you place your hand inside his cage unexpectedly, you'll get nipped. It is best, when cleaning his cage, to have him out of his cage.

Lovebirds need activity in and out of the cage to stay healthy. Swings, ladders, an interlocked bamboo rings are favorites. The 6 inch cockatiel swings are the best size for lovebirds.

I have Lovebirds as pets and they are the bird in our home that keeps us laughing with their adorable personality and clowning activities....

You should never house Black Mask or Fischer Lovebirds with other types of Lovebirds such as the common Peach Face. The Black Mask [and Fischer] is a more docile bird and in any kind of conflict, the Black Mask is likely to lose.

Black Mack Lovebirds come is green, blue, and violet among other colors and are a very beautiful bird! They remind me of little penguins. The are a little more timid than other types of Lovebirds, but can be just as loveable and bonded to you. Whether a Peach-face or a Black Mask, a Lovebird is worth the investment and will give you years of a very special companionship!

Be sure to visit us online!

[ No Ws Ý] If you have any questions, feel free to email us!